The second day of FPW had all the big wigs lined up, obviously there was this usual crowding at the venue. But I was looking forward to it as it promised a good mix of the so-called textile brands and some well renowned designers.So here is how it turned out:
The second day started with a dramatic show by Shamaeel Ansari, the lady proved with her exceptionally draped pieces why she is the chairperson of Fashion Pakistan Council. The pieces with various dramatic sleeves,exotic oriental prints and fine embroidery added just the right bit of exuberance to the whole presentation, one of the best collections in FPW hands down. I loved how the prints didn’t overpower but rather added depth the whole look.
To follow suit were the menswear duo Arsalan & Yahseer with their collection titled ‘Spectacle Blanc’ their inspiration was scenic valley of Kashmir and its craftsmanship. I loved the weaving technique that they used in white for suits, it greatly reminded me of Salvatore Ferragamo‘s signature basket weave. But my favourites in their collection were the colorful floral jackets and another favourite was the white suit worn by Abdullah which had traditional hand embroidery on the sleeves. Although I didn’t like their collection last time, this time they won me over by a rich teal blue colored jacket that was worn by Abbas Jafri.
3rd one to present her collection was Ayesha Ibrahim, it was ’60’s looks and Rock n Roll’. Models strutted down the runway on tacky Lollywood soundtracks presenting collection that was heavy on mustard, purples, and white.I was literally on the fence with this collection. I felt that the designer perceived 60’s Free Love as uninhibited use of patterns and colors. I personally saw no commercial retail or editorial potential in her pieces. It was like a diarrhea of undigested 60’s design elements, and I guess the lesson for all is that ones who haven’t lived in 60s shouldn’t attempt doing it.
Kayseria, the local retail brand came out with delightfully bright and fresh colors. It was amazing how they sewn together 60’s pants and short kurtis with their insipid lawn-like fabric. A good approach to using printed fabric like this to show versatility, loved the use of white headbands and I wish they made some menswear too because their prints were quite basic. Lastly, their Creative Director Waleed Zaman must be commended for rocking a fabulous pair of pink pants with a simple black tee.
Obaid Sheikh‘s collection titled ‘Elise’ was also quite pleasant for its use of spring colors, it was good to see that he experimented with different materials from cotton lace to muslin and crepe. The womenswear didn’t quite do well for me, the piece worn by Nadia Hussain particularly just felt a little improper. However I was quite fond of the colors he presented in menswear: the suits worn by Jahan E Khalid and Ather Amin were quite chic. I will give him an A for effort because he did experiment with different fabrics( I have never seen cotton lace in menswear before).
Ishtiaq Afzal Khan‘s pieces were more like a craft exhibit, his collection titled ‘GulKari’ predominantly focused on the embroidery placed at all sort of places on various garments. In terms of cuts, he played it very safe but there was plenty retail potential. The short dress was quite commendable and the jacket worn by Ayaan also struck the right chord with me. I liked the menswear options he presented, especially the embroidered white T-shirt on Tabish Oza with embroidered sandals and tie worn by Omer Shahzad. I feel he just needs to focus more on details and experiment.
Karachi’s much loved Sania Maskatyia lived up to her name, she started with her signature prints on silks that focused on elements of cartography and travel. So there were her Islamic art motifs with a mix of cartographic lines, imagery of ships and what not. An exceedingly commercial collection full of tunics one could mix and match. However it was a kind of let-down personally considering the reputation the brand has built. I was expecting more dramatic cutting-edge stuff.
Stay tuned for part 2, as some of the industry’s big-wigs will be covered in that part.
P.S. Photos belong to their respectful owners.