Since its my first time actually reviewing a PFDC fashion week, I will try to be as gentle and as open minded as possible. First things first I must commend the PFDC for spreading out the event into 4 days unlike FPW which was a bit hard to ingest. Another good thing about them is that they showcase a different makeup/styling partner for each day so you can actually see the variety. Day 1 was styled by the legendary Nabila.There was this Walls Magnum display and also the Pond’s Reveal lounge to preview next day’s collections. Kudos to Unilever for clever positioning of brands.
The day started with a showcase by Chenone, they had basically got their bland brand ‘ Pareesa‘ (read lawn) designed into chic pret pieces by the designer Sahar Atif, I must say that the lady stretched the creative limits for good because there is little that can be done with lawn prints. Another plus was the fact that the models were not swirling around with dupattas. There were quite a few hits, my favorites were jumpsuits worn by Rabya Chaudry and in the end the trio of ensembles worn by Mehreen, Nadia Ali and a third new model.( 6/10 and an A- for effort! )
Kayseria more or less showed off the same collection that they presented at FPW5 earlier this month. There were these interestingly colored cotton fabrics with eyelets (commonly known as chicken fabric for some God forsaken reason). Although I don’t remember seeing some of the pieces e.g. an exquisite cutout piece in Pink worn by Nadia Ali, (probably they included some new pieces). As I had written before, there were good reinterpretations of 60s silhouettes and the headbands were colorful and matching the outfits this time around. Major props to their Creative Director, Waleed Zaman for rocking yet another pair of colorful pants, this time a very tasteful shade of light green (faded colors being a hot trend this spring) and he paired them with a white shirt. (6.5/10 and A+ for Creative Director’s pants)
Sitara Textiles was everything but a star, the collection was basically lawn joras (read banal shalwar kameez ensembles). There was just one print worn by Cybil Chaudhry that I deem decent enough to be commented upon and even that looked a lil similar to a Gulahmed print from yesteryears. I wish they make something different out of their banal cloth or they should just sell solid colored lawn fabric so that something decent can be made out of it.( 1/10 D- for everything, although fabric isn’t that bad)
Then the big guns started rolling in, one of the Pakistani fashion’s iconic and multi-talented photographer Tapu Javeri came in with his line of prints and accessories called ‘Tapulicious‘. His collection composed of kaleidoscopic photographic prints called ‘KaraChakra’ and the dresses were made by designers Adnan Pardesy, Rizwan Beyg, Wardha Saleem and Sadaf Malaterre, all of whom had interpreted their own vision onto his prints. I loved Wardha’s and Adnan Pardesy’s pieces because their own personality shown through. The fringe dress could have used a bit more fringe perhaps. Regardless, it was a great exhibit of how a meagre print can turn out to be so different by each designer. I really liked the large bags and the scarves but I wasn’t a big fan of the finale dress on Mehreen, and the large red belt on the dress worn by Nadia Hussain.(7.5/10, A for clever idea of collaboration)
Then it was Misha Lakhani‘s turn with her collection titled ‘Configurations’, a peculiar name I must say but the writeup said it had something to do with embracing femininity and having fun with fluidity. As it turned out it was a good collection comprising of persian carpet prints and the islamic architectural details.Some of the pieces were really beautifully accessorised by a tulle net stole which had traditional gotta accents on it.The use of this translucent overlay was spot on, and the choice of silk and satin shamose turned out beautifully in drapes. Nothing crazy, nothing too dramatic but fairly good. (7/10 and B for creativity)
Huma Adnan‘s FnKAsia had quite a journey with her collection focusing on Bengal. The pieces had all the signature elements of a FnkAsia collection i.e. ample use of Orange, Red and Yellow colors, beading for accessories and some ethnic influence for the shape of the garments. The ethnic influence this time was a Sari, which was deconstructed to make it more ready to wear per se. My favourite pieces were white tunic with large earrings on Saima Azhar, the red draped piece on Nadia Ali and the finale off shoulder dress on Humaima Malik. (5.5/10 and B for creativity).
Then to break the doldrum of banality, it was Khadija Shah‘s Elan with her stunning collection named after Keat’s poem ‘Ode to a Nightingale‘. The subtle use of dusky pale colors, the demure Chinoiserie prints of birds and plants, and lastly the right amount of draping and embellishments created a beautiful collection. There were long dresses, jumpsuits and practically everything .It was so beautiful that I will only mention the two misses for me i.e. the tights on the japanese script short dress, and the the pearl embellished c collar on the white shirt. She herself looked very elegant when she walked out to take a bow in the end, I wish she showed that piece in collection too.(8.5/10 and A+ for making the Day 1 worthy)
But then it went downhill for me with Akif Mahmood’s collection that was supposedly inspired from collages, it used traditional design motifs appliqued on background of black. The overall effect seemed a little too Lawn for me, there was nothing exciting, probably because the design motifs seemed a bit too ‘lawn’ and tired. My favs from his collection was the bold black and white printed pants. There were few short dresses and some floral prints on black towards the end of his collection that were comparatively better. The dresses with large flowers printed on them made me think of the flower prints Raf Simons did for Jil Sanders and the printed skirt paired with solid black top in Raf Simons for Dior.(2/10 and D for bad choice of prints and fabric)
Sara Shahid‘s ‘NOW! Summer Sublime 2013’ lived up to its name, it celebrated living in the moment with ‘sublime’ minimalist designs. There were a lot of jumpsuits in a tangerine hue of Pink, the silhouette was pretty airy and fluid with the exception of a structured shiny pink suit. All of the pieces were very commercial, quite perfect for Pret retail. There weren’t any experimental cuts or shapes just cash cows. (4.5/10, B- for no risk taking)
Karachi’s Go-to designer for the glitterati ‘Sania Maskatiya‘ presented the collection named ‘Aghaaz’ that revolved around design motifs on tiles and ceramics of various cultures. The lady did what she does best i.e. the prints.Each one of them quite disparate interms of references from oriental to european motifs. After looking at her collection one could understand why Ayesha Hasan’s collection at FPW5 was being compared to Maskatiya. In terms of individual garments they were not many dramatic cuts yet everything was incredibly practical yet chic.(6/10, and B for no dramatic innovation in cuts).
The last collection for the day was ‘The Sunshine Collection‘ by Maria B., one of the founding members of PFDC. The collection said to be inspired by joy, happiness and fun did not bring any of those to me. I really liked the new Zebra print and audacious way that these were mixed with solid colors. Although there was something really wrong with the fit of the garments, I say so because some of the stick thin models looked fat around the mid-section and the hips. It wasn’t just one or two pieces but the whole collection had this ballooning at wrong places, so much so even the jumpsuits looked too roomy around hips probably the fabric chosen didn’t fair well. Liked the pink top with zebra capris and the yellow jumpsuit with zebra sides on Mehreen Syed (4.5/10 and C for bad fit).
P.S. All the photos belong to their respective owners