The last day of the PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week was the most promising day in the lineup. There were plenty of new designers showing their lines and thankfully less Lawn brands. The styling for the last day was done by the (in)famous Khawar Riaz. Over the four days few trends have emerged like the bold black n white stripes, jumpsuits, oriental influences and the quintessential pink color.
MK Nation by Karma showed off their high-street collection titled ‘Ode to Lahore‘ complete with the colorful fabrics, screen printed Lahore Imagery and what not.There were a lot of commercial options, my favourites were the khussa shoe printed top, and the colorful screen printed Imran Khan kurtas at the end. A great move to have Imran Khan‘s face screen printed onto the pieces considering its election season although the same has been done before with Quaid‘s image and Marilyn Monroe.(4/10, C for color and Imran Khan faces).
Coco by Zara ShahJahan also gave us a delightful collection of summery separates in pure cotton. Really loved the abundance of white and pastel hues of pink, blue and purple.Loved the floral embroidery on white pieces. Good commercial collection and very tastefully styled.(5.5/10, B+ for those whites)
For the highstreet segment Kayseria showcased their pret brand ‘Kayseria Prèt’ with three distinct inspirations; from folk art, contemporary evolution & traditional heritage see across three lines; Rawayat, Virsa and Kontemporary. So you can expect a myriad of colors and with lots of traditional patterns and mix of prints. Good range of options ranging from tops to a proper kameeze. Again their creative director Waleed Zaman left me envious with his pants, that yellow from the front and pink from back. (5.5/10, B+ because I love his pants and yea the prints too)
The Working Woman also presented their collection in which they had collaborated with Adnan Pardesy. As the name suggests the brand caters to Pakistan’s “urban, beautiful, strong, feminine and go-getting Working Woman”,so the collection had pieces that work for multiple occasions and scenarios.Some of the pieces had the signature Pardesy panels and pleats.Liked the black draped piece on Mehreen (3.5/10, D for being a bit too boring)
One of the Pakistani Fashion’s veterans Faiza Samee showed off her Spring Summer 2013 collection consisting mainly of prints that transitioned between the “..ethnic Central Asian weaves and vintage Russian Chintz”. Lots of interesting mixes of stripes and traditional floral prints. The accessories were heavy with traditional references were really spot on. My favourites were the floral jacket on the newbie model, floral pants in the end on Nadia Ali and the long draped gown on Mehreen Syed.(6.5/10,B+ for the beautiful prints)
Maheen Karim the lady known for her draped gowns made her “maiden foray into the the world of ready-to-wear digital prints” by her Spring Summer 2013 collection titled ‘Paradise’. The best from her, were the exquisitely draped gowns , the green at times was tad bit too bright and the pieces with embroidery also didn’t do much for me.Although a good collection but a few pieces didn’t belong in the collection like the black & white graphic print on Fayezah Ansari and the gold sequin number on Fouzia.(6/10, B for some really beautiful gowns)
Newbie Arooj Ahmed, presented her ‘The Magnificent Mandarin’ titled collection.The inspiration has been taken from the colorful mandarin-fish. Very few pieces but some of them were beautifully constructed especially the short dresses in the beginning that had beautifully replicated the fins of the fish.Loved the colorful acrylic bands in hands and the tulle strip on the eyes.(4/10 but A+ for those dramatic short dresses)
Daniyal Mubarik was an oddball,his debut 2013 Spring Summer Collection interweaved a lots of disparate cultural elements that at times were not aesthetically pleasing. The Kimono sleeve number although quite well made lost it because of the plaid lapels, the same with the turban.The only two pieces that seemed rather forgivable were: the alternate lapel jacket on Faeza Ansari & the exaggerated shoulder jacket (ala Thom Brown) on Fouzia. Had it been in one color void of all those prints I would have liked it(3.5/10, Y for being too ambitious)
Nareen Shaikh’s Mahgul collection took inspiration from “old photographs from the Civil and Military Gazette” and attempted to reinvent the designs in a more modern context.I must say it was a nice debut with few really edgy pieces, liked the innovative treatments on Jinnah Caps and the pieces on Nida Ali, Meesha Shafi and Fauzia.(4.5/10, A+ for a beautifully dark collection).
And it kept getting better with another debutante Syed Mohsin Ali,his collection focused on the environmental sustainability and was titled ‘Sustainable Fashion’.It was great to see someone being enlightened enough to think in such broader contexts, I was really impressed by the fact that all fabrics used in his collection “incorporate environmentally friendly custom-made fibers extracted from substances such as bamboo, organic cotton, soybean, milk, tencel, air cell and corn.”.I really liked the baskets turned into head pieces. I quite liked was the introductory piece on Rabya Chaudry and the one in the end on Cybil.(4/10, B+ for being Green)
Hamza Bokhari who although shares my last name probably doesn’t share my love for biology as there is no such thing as a White Owl. Although he decided to name his collection that, he probably meant a Barn Owl or a Snowy Owl. His collection chose to go with digital prints incorporating Native American design influences. One thing’s for sure he loves his volume since created a lot of it in sleeves, a princess ball gown and even on the shoulders on the jacket.(2/10, and Y for didn’t you focus on details and fit? )
Then we waywardly went towards designer Schehrezade Sohail Muzammil‘s collection titled ‘Neo Nomadism’, the use of what seemed like diving goggles was quite interesting. There were some nicely draped pieces although I wasn’t quite into the selection of fabrics.She does seem to have a lot of potential.(6/10 and B+ for a cohesive collection)
Khaadi Khaas‘s collection for PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week presented traditional textiles from East Asia from Tribal to Sub–continental designs. All the silhouette were relaxed and at time a bit resort like. I really loved the way they fused red orange paisley print into solid white and black very much like a Etro menswear jacket.(5.5/10, E for lack of originality
MUSE Spring/Summer 2013 collection was inspired by the romance and beauty of the feminine figure. The color palette was also quite sublime and made ample use of Pantone‘s color of the year Emerald Green. The collection primarily consisted of a relaxed silhouette in floor sweeping cuts. There was a lot of ornate pearls and sequins to embellish their pieces made of crepe. I liked their commercial cocktail design sensibility.(7/10, B+ cuz I liked them)
3rd last to show was Wardha Saleem with her Spring/Summer collection called ‘Doodle Junction‘.Although she has always been known for focus on indigenous designs, this time she had a little 70s psychedelic pattern feel to it. It was really nice to see her experiment with something different yet contemporary. I liked the pieces in which she had mixed the print with a separate solid color. Plenty of options of shirts, skirts and yes there was one edgy sari in the end(5.5/10, C because I have seen much better from her).
Ali Xeeshan used the drama card with his ‘Jalsa-e-Ishq’ collection, His primary inspiration was apparently the “aura of a political situation” as he describes. His whole collection was built heavy on the Spring Summer 2013 trends of using sheer textiles, cutouts and color white. There were accents of embroidery in dull gold and pearls. I also liked the clever styling using jewelry pieces and Gandhi topis. And by looking at his pieces I can deduce that white eyelet fabric is going to be huge this S/S 2013. Wish there were more menswear pieces. (8/10, B+ for keeping it simple)
The finale of PFDC was HSY ‘Believe‘ collection for his relaunched ready-to-wear line called ‘H by HSY‘. Thankfully he strayed away from his bronze gold embroidery on black and white ensembles.This collection featured a summery color palette of washed out pastels ranging from dull peachy pink to a very light aquamarine. Loved all the menswear options and accessories in summery hues and the womenswear. their was this one blue grey aquamarine dress on Amna Ilyas with a hideous texture on hemline and sleeves which I found really weird.(8/10, B+ for that lovely color palette)
That was all about PFDC Sunsilk Fashion Week 2013, it was a full 4 days of fashion and yea those falls.But it was draining nonetheless.
P.S. All the photos belong to Faisal Farooqui and his team at Dragonfly.