After a seasons hiatus FPW is supposedly back, their press conference last year promised new energy growth and what not. The 3 day Fashion Week which started on 20 February had a lot of problems to start with but somehow they managed to get the ball rolling on Day 1. I must say I really missed Lotus‘s promptness and Catalyst‘s commitment, only in their absence I got to feel how bad it can really get.Here is what I thought about the collections:
The show started with HSY celebrating his 20 years of success, excellence and what not. He showcased a pret collection titlted ‘Venom‘. It was the signature black and gold HSY color palatte with a bit of blue and red thrown in. Another major theme was the use of chevron pattern which is often used to denote rank/heraldry in military service. I wish there was more of snakeskin pattern. My 2 favourites were the jumpsuit on Shahzad Noor and the red number on Rabya Chaudry.
Then there was the fateless show by 4 graduates of AIFD & IVS. Looking at the clothes made me feel dismal state of Pakistan. I understand the graduate shows are not supposed to be perfect but as a potential sponsor I would want to see techniques they have perfected and their unique vision. The collection presented by the IVS graduates still had hope and showed a range but ones from AIFD were grossly disappointing. Who wants to see a ill fitted top and model wearing nothing but jewelry and strips of cloth sweeping across the floor. Why dont they watch Project Runway for God’s sake.
LALA Textile‘s presentation wasn’t as LALA land as one could have imagined, it was a departure from their lawn jora wearing models swinging their dupatas in air but I am not sure if it was a good departure. The person who cut up those haphazard prints and sewn them up together should be lynched by Fashion Taliban( yes there should be a group like that). Even a tailor can sew together leftover pieces of prints like this in a more aesthetically pleasing way. The only plus for me were the jackets.
Amna Aqeel showcased a collection titled ‘After the winter‘ , with a bejeweled eyebrows on models being the only coherent thing in the whole collection.There were resort like printed pieces, some dresses then long ones some cocktail options all on their own. One of the pieces screamed Raf Simons “Dior goes to Dubai” to me another one reminded me of “Elie Saab lost in Bangkok”. My favs were the two mauve dresses and the long blue sheer number.
Nida Azwer’s white ‘Arabesque’ collection was a palate cleanser. White embroidery on white cottony fabric with hints of metallic here and there. There were saaris, floor sweeping flared skirt, and even some western options. My favs were the cutout top on Fayezah Ansari and obviously the sole menswear option on Rizwanullah. I hope she puts the blazer or kurta like that in retail.
Deepak Perwani went to the beach, his collection was mostly resort in its theme and season. As the models started coming on to the runway I was left wondering is it really Deepak Perwani‘s collection or are they sending pieces from Mahin Karim‘s printed silks and Shehla Chatoor gold collection. Yes, I know all the designers get fabrics from the same places but isn’t it better to pick a different one, one which potentially is not so strongly associated with another brand. The collection wasn’t bad but between all the noise, the designer seemed to have his lost his signature.
Levis showcased three lines of theirs, I did a sneak peek post about them and they didn’t disappoint.There were lot of wearable options from denim jackets to patterned shirt, only feedback from me would be to rationalize their prices. I am not gonna buy 11000 ki jeans you know, I would rather go to Saddar buy a raw one and break it down myself. Just Sayin’
Zainab Chhotani‘s ‘Aqua’ was also a welcome proposition. She thankfully showed some western silhouettes rather than her bridal line. Colors were red, green and blue and some of them had really beautiful embroidery on them. Clothes fit better and had a good retail as separates potential. But her embroidery remined me of Ishtiaq Afzal‘s collection at FPW 5. Pairing solid greens with black and white print was reminiscent of Deepak Perwani‘s Frida Kahlo Collection and Tapu Javeri‘s accessories. So why not choose a different color or atleast a different prints! My favs were the capes in the start!
Last to show was the texture king Adnan Pardesy, using gotta in his unique technique his collection titled ‘Eximus‘ was nothing short of divine. I love the pairing of gold and white, the texture of the jackets was to die for. The collection went from white and gold to bronze and black.It ended with a black eastern number which was the first time I have seen Pardesy doing one. Men’s jackets were bad ass, I wish to get my hands on one.
I hope Day 2, and 3 are better fingers crossed!