As the Day 3 of FPW6 approached, I was tired. Going to work, then straight to FPW, all the fake air kissing and smiles, coming home at 1:00 am and then back to work the next morning at 10:00. It really takes a toll. I pity all the models who have do it day in & day out managing to look good throughout. Day 3 had Tapu Javeri among others who I had been looking forward to.
The show started with Tapu Javeri‘s collection in which he had collaborated with Kamiar Rokni, Mohsin Ali and HSY. The gorilla sleeves on the Mohsin Ali‘s ensemble worn by Amna Ilyas, the white cage-like masks everything was beautiful. Kamiar‘s collection seemed to reference Japanese geishas with the knots in the hair and long layered silhouette. My favorite part was HSY‘s black and white prints with HSY‘s own face replicated in a psychedellic pattern along with zebra pattern, chevrons and an image of a tiger. Although I don’t know if I would want HSY‘s face all over my pants like some of the male models did.
It was first time for Daaman to show at FPW. I have always admired their quick inventory turnovers and the fact that their prices are very approachable. The pieces they chose to show at FPW were versatile, yet chic.The color pallete range from sorbet pink, peach to egg yolk and even black & white prints. If Pakistan had DVF it would probably be Daaman. My only wish was that they showed drama somehow.
Gulahmed showcased their Lamis printed silk collection, the prints were no doubt really good. The purple piece worn by Sabeeka was my sole favoruite. Everything else was like they had taken silhouettes from the all the Luxury pret stores in Dolmen Mall Clifton and replicated them. I wonder why don’t they collaborate with a theatrical designer to use their prints more efficiently for runway.
Wardha Saleem transitioned ahead with her new collection titled ‘Dasht e Gul’. The gilded collection had a new energy, a good move by her to move from ethnic heavy aesthetic. I liked the saari on Nadia ali, the gown on Ayaan, the dual print skirt and also the gold pieces. The gold buns with studs added the the right amount of drama to the looks, although I am not too sure about those wiry earrings. Not great but still good!
Ali Xeeshan ‘s atelier is aptly named ‘theater studio’, the designer certainly knows how to put on a show. His presentation titled ‘JALAL’ started with Bollywood song Chumma Chumma dede later transitioned into Ram LeelaNagara Baje drum sequence. The main theme seemed to be jogis clad in orange and the obi used to tie kimonos. Although I hate orange to my guts, some peices looked decent when imagined in other colors. The crane imagery was beautiful I wish he had explored it more. Hair styling looked great! Music being a huge let down,abrupt transitioning from one track mood to another was audio vomit. If he could tone down the drama a little probably I’ll start taking the clothes more seriously.
Kayseria didn’t disappoint either. There were the usual tunics and all. But the most revolutionary thing to me was the fact that they used their printed fabric as a saari. Yes you read it right. I hope Gulahmed and Lala types take note that you can do much more than just make joras and tunic pants ensemble.I hope Kayseria retails them as well.
Faraz Manan also took to the beach and designed a resort collection. I must say we in Pakistan are really off from the international fashion calendar. The color pallete was peachy, sea green and cream. The embellishment on a lot of pieces seemed unnecessary, and the use of satin at times verged on downright distasteful. I quite liked the blazer on Abbas Jafri, checkered pants on Waleed and the dresses on Cybil and Rabia Butt.
Maheen Hussain, one of the few people in Pakistan who is has been committed to the cause of accessories and particularly bags showed a collection that was more of an ode to Parveen Shakir. The pop art freshness of everything worked. I really liked the dark green print and also those ‘girl’ earrings were a clever touch.
The show ended with the popular Nomi Ansari, his collection titled ‘gravity’ was a costume show. There were jackets made of gold jacquard, metallic corsets, crowns,voluminous princess gowns made of tulle, baloons and what not. Wearable not so much but it did reflect our current state i.e. we love a great drama. My favs were the look on Rabia Butt, the ruffled short dress on Cybil, the men’s safari jacket fit for Liberace, quilted dress on Nadia Hussain and lastly the shoes the guys were wearing.
As I was leaving the venue, Day 3 felt like one of those Salman Khan movies that make 100s of corers and you don’t know shit why it is so.
I presume that we as nation have become fixated with the circus of it. Clothes were nice and all, but the amount of skin show was at times just a gimmick e.g. model Waleed Khalid appeared shirtless and even bare legs in almost every presentation. There was a mini in every collection just to add in “the quintessential western number”. Where are the foreign buyers to whom we are showing these western contemporary options? Do fashion shows have any impact on the actual retail of those brands? and many others.