In Fashion you never say never, one day you hate orange another you get to hear that orange is the new black. So here I am writing about Pantene Bridal Couture Week 2014. Aamiriat had taken this self-imposed boycott about two years back, and now while researching for an article about bridal fashion(Business at BCW printed in Instep Daily) I had a change of heart. How can I leave it to the people who call every design “glamorous” “beautiful” and “royal”,although I am also quite at loss for adjectives when describing these clothes. I wish HUMTV folks gave access to all the photos so I could blog about it more comprehensively,but I ll make do with whatever photos I get from the internet. I hereby present you post about hits at #PBCW2014.(misses and menswear to follow soon)
I have been looking at photos for 3 days and there are some really bad pieces in almost everyone; So, I am doing things different this time, I ll be picking good and bad pieces from almost all, rather than terming the whole collection as a hit or miss.
Zaheer Abbas didn’t disappoint me with his bridal aesthetic, ‘Jashan-e-Janan’ was the latest installment in his series of janan titled collections. Being one of my favorite designers because of his romantic design sensibility, his bridal range is rather celebratory and rich in colors. I was a fan of those maroon embroidered pencil pants with cream gold tops(perfect way of reinterpreting angarkha neckline and pairing them with contemporary silhouette of pants), the finale dress on Nadia Hussein was lush translation of quintessential red jora, two other favorites were navy blue flared shirt with caramel brown garara, and obviously the cream ensemble on Humaima Malik.
Power house was a collective showcase by renowned designers(Sana Safinaz,Umar Sayeed, Nickie Nina,Elan, Kamiar Rokni, Ali Xeeshan and Shamael Ansari). I don’t know what was the thought process behind this segment, but Umar Sayeed(pink and silver), Sana Safinaz(red with dull gold bronze embellishments),Kamiar(plush embroidered dupata)and Ali Xeeshan(loved those white ensembles) really nailed it for me. I seriously question the why and how Nickie Nina were put in the power house, and it was also very unwise of them to show against such experienced folks.
Faraz Manan‘s ‘Istanbul‘ titled collection did prove one fact that he is essentially a bridal designer. His use of embellishments particularly crystals was very symmetric and admirable. The color pallete of dull silver gold, cream, dull green were pleasing to the eyes. The good part about his clothing was that the fabrics (chiffon and blended silks )were not unflatteringly pulled down by the weight of embellishments. Use of chevrons on the border made them fresh somehow.There was hardly a piece that I didn’t like. The ensembles on Ayaan, Fouzia and Noorey Bhatti were absolute favorites.
It wont be wrong to say that Nida Azwer is probably Karachi’s reigning princess these days,she has presented beautiful new collections at all the fashion shows in past five months. Her collection for PBCW titled ‘Kothari Parade‘ was classic in inspiration yet contemporary in construction. It is very refreshing to see a voluminous silhouette that has a relaxed fit considering every other designer went for figure hugging shapes. Another plus was the intricate embellishments, from grill patterns to floral branches it all seemed to have been executed quite neatly. All those embroider jacket layering effect is a big plus! Really loved the scale of those three petal gold motifs on blue jacket. Been a while since I saw such patterns in jamawar.
Nomi Ansari‘s ‘Ishq‘ was a vibrant riot of reds, although I often don’t respond well to his kitsch aesthetic but this time it felt more pulled together. His choice of using fresh red and pink hues is very commercially viable, as a lot of designers in trying to modernize have abandoned the use of red altogether. Also I must commend him for workmanship as some of the joras were replete with intriciate embroidery. The fact that most of the ending pieces had long shirts with sleeves I can expect that he would attract a decent amount of brides to be. My favorite was the red jora with green sleeves. It all proves one thing that with bridals you probably don’t really need to reinvent the wheel.
Last but not the least was HSY, with his orchid collection for lower price points. It is great to see how the brand has moved away from those heavy bronze gold days. The collection seems to be heavy on light stone beige hues with hints of purple, fuchsia and a peculiar pink which I like to call ‘Milk Rose’. Described as ensembles for nikkah and engagement ceremonies, the ensembles were characteristically under embellished for nikkahs in our society if you ask me. Having said that I feel they could make great options for Quran khwani, qul, melad or something along those lines. LOVED the dark purple and white. It is very clever of him to use multiple layers of fabrics to create an illusion of light exuberance.
So this was the oatmeal/chicken soup side of aamiriat covering what I thought were relatively better ones. I felt that one should always start with a good note.