Although I had been planning on attending this year’s PFDC L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week 2014 but sadly I couldn’t make it because the invites came in at the last-minute. I couldn’t get leave from my day job and so I decided to stay at the job which pays the bills. Interestingly a lot of my favorite designers like Elan, Shehla Chatoor and Zaheer Abbas were missing from this year’s lineup. So I had to pick from whatever was offered, beggars can’t be choosers; some were hot, others lukewarm and the rest just whatever. They have all been clubbed here in hits:
Fahad Hussayn‘s ‘Putlighar‘ took inspiration from the puppet dolls of ‘Cholistan and Thar’. Color palette was somber but the embellishments in dull gold and accents in dark hues of purple, pink and green added the requisite amount of feminine grace. Beneath all the dramatic accessories there were exquisitely worked wearable pieces. One key trend to take from his collection was the belted paloos and dupatas.
Sania Maskatiya‘s ‘Ara-ornaments’ as the name implies showcased the art of ornamentation. Although the brand is moving away from its geometric patterned signature, the new focus on sublime ornamentation of zardozi and silk thread work merged sophistication and whimsy with their use of sheer fabrics. They might not be high on drama but there surely have their eye on business side of fashion. Sheers to rule 2014 bridal season.
Shamaael Ansari named her collection ‘The Wedding‘ and built on her own legacy of over 28 yrs using rich tones of Marrakesh reds , ivory and burnt amber rolled out an ornate array of ensembles made of most plush fabrics. I presume her clientele is mature, I wished she didn’t put those guldans on the model’s heads. What’s with her obsession to use these bunches of flowers time after time.
Karma Red‘s ‘Lotus Raj‘ collection was composed of RajKumari, Uns.Aatish, Thakurani, Saj Dhaj and Rani. The pieces ranged from fun and flirty to downright swanky bridal lehengas. As the models walked out in groups, it felt good listening to upbeat Bollywood numbers. I loved the deep red screen printed kurtas on men. If Pakistan had a flourishing film industry, Karma would be Pakistan’s Manish Malhotra.
Nida Azwer ‘s ‘Ghalib’ Collection brought forth the Delhi’s storied finesse and the poet’s mystical poetry with her designs. Besides her unprecedented use of frost blue, periwinkle, navy blue, stone and white, there is little to write home about innovation in shapes. I mention her here because of their embroidery and I loved that she has started to offer menswear and those embroidered shawl looks on men were just magnificent.
Sana Safinaz‘s 2014 collection was a lot, it was like one of those hearty Shaadi meals you have and I mean it in a good way. Some ensembles were a masterclass in layering eclectic mixes of prints/color others were splendid shaadi joras the brand is known for.I wish there was a theme of some sort or central concept to tie everything together. They should have built on the eclectically layered pieces shown in the beginning. I needed a 7up after watching the showcase.
Zara Shahjahan is one of those designers who is an option for young women who don’t really relate to overtly traditional eastern design. Having said that there is a lot of hope for her to be magnificent if she keeps on building on her western sensibility. The fact that they showed wearable and practical menswear featuring sherwanis with cool buttons, full shalwars and splendid looking shawls is highly commendable.
Asifa and Nabeel‘s ‘Meena-Maniratna’ was fuss-free & composed of youthful silhouettes that felt light and were a welcome departure from those heavily worked straight long shirts. hena painted hands and music from film Pakeezah further helped the presentation. Nothing avant garde but sweet, and sellable much like kheer after biryani.
Misha Lakhani continued the sheer brilliance with her collection titled ‘Nowruz’. Intricately neat needlework and the appliqué on net was marvelous. So was the silhouette of bridal kaftan. Who thought one could that. And no I am not going to use another shaadi food reference here.
Out of the few newbees in Rising Talent showcase, I only responded favourably to two and thankfully both had their signature design elements from their non-bridal collections.
I loved how detailed the workmanship on Mahgul‘s pieces was.From embroidery to innovative silhouettes,and the accessories all looked good. I just loved the cage bag and chunky jewelry. The most promising new brand of the year I must say.
Wardha Saleem‘s Sindhi roots were quite evident in her designs and so was her love for orange+pink color combos. My favourites were the embroidered figurines on one of daman of embroidered kameez
Some weren’t good enough to even mention here, so they will be in the misses post. I cross my heart I’ ll be gentler!