Misses at PLBW 2014

Although I had previously decided to not write about the misses but since so many people have been asking me for my boorish take I gave in. I felt that the lineup in PLBW2014 was heavily skewed, Day 2 being the most crowded made other two days uneventful and finale presentations turned out to be shockingly inadequate. Here are my biggest disappointments:misses

HSY‘s ‘Divine Decadence’ was true to its name i.e.” decline as characterized by excessive indulgence in pleasure or luxury”. But what was HSY thinking with those faux harness & gold head pieces ? They looked enforced, he could have atleast gotten the real harnesses from saddlery/harness shops or some bondage accessory shop in Bangkok etc. Then there were those questionable chains and untidy spikes/studs patches on shoulders that reminded me of Nomi Ansari’s older work. I also couldn’t comprehend the Divinity part to be frank.The fur neck pieces although dramatic-looking lacked a purpose and what the hell was he thinking with that finale Diane Pernet look on Mehreen?

Ammara Khan  took to Russia for inspiration but besides the use of  crinoline like volume in ending pieces there was little Russia I could see in her designs. She should have restrained her use of shimmery fabric and volume in silhouettes probably it could have turned out better. It was more like a wait at Russian Embassy’s gate counter to me than Tsarist Russia.

Ali Xeeshan‘s ‘Baghawat’ was indeed a rebellion of some sort possibly one away from good taste and manners. One has to be blind to not get the jarring resemblance to Manish Arora’s work from preceding years. I ‘ll pray for people who like and applaud this aesthetic that’s all I can say. My opinion on this blog might be insensitive but his designs were inscrutable. And unlike him I am open to criticism, no dead peacocks for me. I am up for PAPTA (People for aesthetically pleasing treatment of Animals)Thank you!

Akif Mehmood probably got so ‘influenced’  by others that he couldn’t design anything and grabbed stuff from various tailor masters in Ashiana Market Karachi. The haphazard direction, the generic trim at the hems, and several different themes. Or possibly he went like “store room mein jo bhi para hai sab pe sitarey moti lagado” and voila there you have a bridal collection. As for his taking references from different historical ruling families(Sikhs, Nawabs, Rajputs and Mughals) I guess its time he should sue his school what were they teaching in history classes?

Nomi Ansari‘s  ‘GUL’ bridal collection made me remember a line Iqbal’s poem from Bang e dara i.e. “Kis Zuban Se Ae Gul-e-Pazmurda Tujh Ko Gul Kahun(How shall I call you now a flower—Tell me, oh withered flower!). His rose petal tissue boxes might be fun but seeing those colors/prints on shaadi joras and mens jackets was akin to running a lawnmower over garden of clean aesthetic. Probably good for a hip-thrusting Govinda movie from the 90s. To conclude I would say he definitely needed a maali  to prune those thorny Guls, as Mohsin Ali wore a jacket from his collection and made that intellectually undemanding look come off as a cool one.

Seher Tareen also suffered a similar travesty with her collection ‘Emperor’s Assasin‘ when she took references from famous Chinese movie ‘HERO’ circa 2002 and I must say she should add “assassinated an aesthetically pleasant movie” to her long list of credentials. Models that couldn’t carry a saari paloo further stabbed the dead body. Besides the Chinese calligraphy there was little Chinese or Hero-ic.  It was as Chinese as a Chinese food recipe by Zubeida Apa.

Saira Shakira‘s ‘Mid Summer’s Night dream‘ was more like a nightmare in load-shedding stricken summer night. Amna Baber as the first face of presentation walked out practically swimming in a pitifully weird shaped ensemble resembling a young girl playing dress-up in her mother’s huge clothes. The proportions or probably the whole sizing was the issue as if clothes were made for Lollywood actress Saima but then petite girls like Amna baber had to wear them. I wasn’t a fan of mixing heavier and lighter weight fabrics like velvet, and they made me cringe with those chunky matha patis.

People who rely on Tilism and black magic often need medical help and probably people who were calling Sofia Badar’sTilism‘ named collection good need some help too.  From the bad color choices to that autrocious construction. If this is what is rising talent, I ll gladly want to go do some taweez/chilla shit for better or She will probably need to contact some bengali baba for me to do call that red number or angular blue cutouts even passable.

It wasn’t just that there were really bad designs per se but mostly there were a lot of undistinguished so-so ensembles that I had to pass in hits. If you just rip out the tags of most designer’s pieces and mix em up in a pile you might not be able to tell one from another especially in the case of designers like Nickie Nina. Differentiation or signature aesthetic is probably not the designers’ focus. I read in a paper that PLBW ‘s new focus was on the business and it is rightly so but it shouldn’t mean dumbing down to BCW standards. Its saddening to see fewer new people in industry be it models or makeup artists, even the rising talent designers had shown multiple times elsewhere.

I appreciate that people wait anxiously for my misses posts as they find them entertaining like juicy gossip magazine but all of you have to realize that I am not National ka Chat Masala or your chatty pupho I write whatever I feel like.To conclude I would quote Brian Cox’s wise words

“The problem with today’s world is that everyone believes they have the right to express their opinion AND have others listen to it. The correct statement of individual rights is that everyone has the right to an opinion, but crucially, that opinion can be roundly ignored and even made fun of, particularly if it is demonstrably nonsense!

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10 responses to “Misses at PLBW 2014

  1. i think you kept the balance in your Hits post and this post. You didn’t rant. Your arguments were sound, in both posts. And both posts contrast well. So it’s a very balanced approach to the collections. Which is rare to come across nowadays. It’s a very raw…but polished opinion.

    What I specifically like is your use of expressions. You have this strong imagery that you can translate your opinions into and I think that’s what makes your sentences work. Otherwise, what’s the difference in another critic and you?

    Your boldness and strength to go ahead with what your opinion is, is a great trait. Your individuality is exuded and your opinions are validated by your expressionism and your use of unusual words to be in sync with each other.

    • Thank you Ovais. No its only published here on aamiriat.

      Magazines are not willing publish such writeups because designers pay for advertising in those. They wont want to malign them in such manner. So reviews there are mostly omg thats so royal amazing beautiful etc.

  2. hahaha…love your sarcasm..especially towards Ali Xeeshan’s work…(the last two lines…lol..) Also I don’t hate Nomi Ansaris jackets..I think Mohsin Ali pulled it off in a much better way…However I don’t vouch for using a print that you made for a separate project incorporating it in your collection making it look like “oh i ran out of time so I used the same print..” moment..

    • Hahaha Thank you. I like that we have such diversity of views and I respect that. Maybe you are right or maybe I am just being ridiculous who knows. 😛

  3. that one saira shakira on amna baber wala description.. thanks O aamiriat ..maza aya :D:D:D . and hsy’s finale thing was definitely no less an irony! .. Asifa and Nabeel were too repeat, repeat, too safe, repeat to make it into hits though

    • HAHA I agree there is little differentiation when it comes to designers like Asifa and Nabeel et al.But if you look at tweets and reviews you will think as if they were the next steve Jobs or something
      Thanks for your comment though. Really appreciate it 🙂

    • Thank you for making it sound like I am a contestant in Masterchef. I have included some dairy to balance the palette in the Hits part. 😛

      love you 🙂

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