Fashion Pakistan Week AW 2014 started with the usual fanfare on 25th November. Much to my amazement the show started on time too and there were very selective group of people invited this time. It stands true that fewer sponsors do mean lesser aunties uncle families in front rows. Hats off to Latitude CRS and FP for that. There was the glamorous Toni&Guy lounge managed by Golin Harris, for which I was given a nifty little card that exclusively entitled few to drink and nibble there.
Clothes were lukewarm to say the least but here are my picks for hits or should I say the good and the bearable at #FPWAW14:
Shehla Chatoor’s Misaki Collection presented chatoor’s signature western silhouettes adorned with imagery from traditional Japanese screens and sliding doors. With something for everyone. Chatoor pulled all the plugs with jackets, dresses, gowns etc. The Chatoor’s rendition of Japanese samurai costume detailing on the bodices and sleeves reminded one of Balmain FW 2014 with rope and leather weaving techniques . My only wish is that the range more condensed. My favorite part about the collection was the jewelry.
Zaheer Abbas’s Neo Nude comprised mainly of nude, maroon and black ensembles that employed extensive draping techniques and geometric embellishments. Abbas’ choice of working with charmeuse was ambitious but the collection left me wishing for more sheer pieces. My favorites were the sheer pantsuit worn by Nadia Ali, the maroon draped skirt on Noorey Bhatti and the black bustier tops. I absolutely loved the blonde bangs that Nabila and her team had put in.
Sanam Chaudhri’s Bano was one the best collections by the designer. I loved that it was tastefully eastern and had the potential of being offered as separates. The sublime white jacket paired with pants in the beginning and black embroidered jacket paired with red shalwar were my favorite looks. Chaudhri‘s choice of using flat khussas instead of heels was on point. Even though some people criticized her collection for being too bridal, one has to realize that high-street and prêt-wear doesn’t necessarily mean western options, as most of Pakistanis actually wear eastern clothes.
Ather Hafeez for Sana Safinaz was a vibrant resort rendition of 1970s cult of hare Krishna as if some queen had smoked up in a print warehouse and played project runway throughout the night. I liked how he mixed different prints and draped them so masterfully. My favourite was the sequined shift dress and the tied in piece on Mehreen in the beginning. I wish he had done away with some pieces as it let lose the cohesiveness of the whole collection. The ending piece on Neha was giggle-inducing to say the least. What was that?
Ayesha Farooq Hashwani‘s Baroque collection built on designer’s embroidery laden resort aesthetic. The exquisitely worked capes were the stars in her collection. There was progression in her designs as she has moved to explore new shapes. I fell in love with the cutwork cape on Noorey Bhati, because the craftsmanship of using crystals and the way it moved was just magnificent. The maroon number with black embroidery was another good one.
Adnan Pardesy’s Labryinth was like a masterclass in fabric manipulation. His monochrome collection used disparate design influences like Japanese anime, filigree florals and psychedelic patterns in combination with intricate weaving techniques. Having said that I fail to notice all the different things mentioned in his press release, too much verbose. I suppose the collection would have turned out much better if there were more colors incorporated in it and if the clothes didn’t stand stiff.
Maheen Khan’s ‘To Karachi with love’ was the designer’s last collection and it will surely leave a huge void for tasteful refined clothes. My favorites were the sheer gold pieces and the saari with pre sewn paloo. Then there were her slinky long dresses in shades of midnight blue and black a silhouette that she does every season. The best thing about her clothes is that even when she uses difficult fabrics you cannot see any seams let alone any puckering.
Mohsin Ali for Sana Safinaz was another collection worthy of mention. Featuring draped robe-like pieces it greatly reminded me of Haider Ackermann’s 2011 2010 collections. I really appreciate the fact that brand is taking a new fashion forward direction but I am not sure if its the right direction or if they are going too fast into it. Those chunky crystal embellishments and Outhouse gold jewelry didn’t do any favor to the designs. To me they downgraded it a great deal.
Maheen Karim‘s collection vaguley reminded me DVF and Cavalli of yesteryears. There were both highs and lows starting from the red carpet appropriate pieces in the beginning to dramatic numbers like the long black sheaths with gilded filigree detail. My favorite was the black top on Tooba Siddiqui and the embroidered velvet pants. She could have easily done away with that crinoline cage on Amna Ilyas in the end.
Deepak Perwani’s ‘everything but the girl’ started with a spornosexual fashion film and his menswear options mainly revolved around the punny rooster print, long coats and slim jodhpurs with a few odd ball numbers thrown in. I particularly liked the harnesses and belts, I wish he had done away with those cringe-worhty embroidered pieces on Waqar ahmed, Rizwan jafri and Haider ulma. My favourite looks were the ones on Abbas Jafri, Asif Rehman, and Rohail.
Stay tuned for my misses post. I promise to be as ruthless as they come.