Misses at Telenor FPW SS 2015

The biggest miss of TFPW15 was the lighting which was done in a way that only photographers in the end of aisle were able to get good photos, hence the fewer instagrams. The very people who create digital content were not seated at an appropriate place almost all had bobble-heads in photos, I saw few prominent bloggers scrambling here and there all 4 days for good photos. Alas seating ain’t rocket science. Despite the cold wind blowing against bloggers’ role and their credibility, people were flown in and they sat, took selfies and did the whole shebang. Sana Safinaz ruled the borrowed jora game, it was such a sweep that there were little Shehla Chatoors and virtually no Elans on red carpet this time.

misses tfpw15 aamiriat

Anyways here are the people who didn’t do it for me, either they were unimpressive or just bleh:

The new talent shows have never been this bad, there were 4 deranged options 1 wannabe PVC fetishist, 2nd the colorful trashbag collector, 3rd the heroin-addict in the neighboring vacant plot and lastly a lonely BDSM enthusiast. It was like Project Runway Johar chapter went to Shershah for materials instead of Mode. Its better that Bank Alfalah should burn the Rs 500,000 or send these kids to some fashion rehabilitation center.

Madiha Razas flight that took off last year at Maybelline NY Millennial Fashion Show had the same fate as Germanwings plane. It crashed. With prints that looked like gift wrapping paper and the trite choice of flowers motifs further hackneyed the ensembles.Her one trick pony of laser cut technique also didn’t gel well as a lot of cutout accents looked like rubber placemats and coasters.The only nice detail was leafy cutouts on the back of a tunic.

Amna Aqeel in her sorbet shaded collection, wasn’t as pleasant as my use of adjective implies. Her use of filigree vines and swirls in golden silver coupled with illfits left an inconspicuous void making one remember the matchy-matchy glittering contemporary bridal nightmares. The choice of fabric resembled the mithai boxes from Shikarpur Sweets. The dramatic skirt at the end with burst of color near the hem was like plate of white zarda with ashrafis.

FnkAsia thankfully moved away from its desi hot mess aesthetic and into something more refined and basic. There were subtle elements of braiding, the lace, and eyelets. I feel that in order to reassert their ethnic USP they could have built upon the embellishments used on the top worn by Noorey Bhatis in the beginning. Its the best I have seen from FnkAsia since their Saari derivatives few seasons back.But sadly they couldn’t be put in the same basket as Iman’s Body Focus Museum.

Bad collections make stories and boy did Abdul Samad pull out proverbial rabbits out of his gimmicky hat to amaze us. Hands down the worst menswear I have seen in the last decade. From the color-blocking to strange construction, the whole collection looked tacky. There were hardly any tasteful options besides the two linen blazers accessorized with scarves No amount of celeb showstoppers can make me start liking it.

HSY’s Hi-Octane started with Hira Tareen DJ-ing live on the runway. But the fuel-guzzling collection ran out of gas midway on the track when models appeared in subdued-checkered suits accessorized with conventional rep ties and checkered shirts. The  jackets were  at times synched in way too tight when buttoned up, there were black shoes with brown belts vv and a belt or two were missing as well. The yellow polka dot shirt look on Tabish Oza was the only look that caught my attention. Even larger than life ‘King of couture’ aka Pakistani fashion’s Pitbull and Dj-ing Hira Tareen couldn’t make-up for the bad mileage of clothes themselves.

Sonya Batla‘s Manora which used Nazia Khan’s art pieces wasn’t exactly the kind of Manora or Batla I had in mind. It looked raw and complex at best but at times the irregular tattered edges and braided chords and seashells made it look primitive at worst. I was looking for pretty dreams not Flinstones. My un-edcuated self couldn’t really get to shores of Manora. I prefer what she sells in her atelier to this. And you know what I chatted with her after the show, she was badass cool and frank enough to not get offended.

Amir Adnan’s Shahzadey celebrated the princely wardrobe with jeweled ties, cummerbunds, patkas and armbands. Clothes made from decadent jamawars in hues of shiny coppers, champagne gold and black amber helped create ”the BCW effect” and I quite liked how printed shawls were draped. But where would you wear these besides your own wedding? Even then I wouldn’t want to look like a tin of Quality Street.

Rizwanullah’s white bedsheets returned for Fifth Avenue Swarovski collection, thankfully he made some proper pieces like dresses and pants. But even with simpler silhouette his  shortcomings in construction were glaring from ruched fabric to conjoined seams, to the slopping use of lace.But then finesse has never been his strong suit even if we take in to account print media’s unrealistically favorable views about him. I say kudos for the bejeweled eyebrows.

Somal Halepoto also mocked as “Poor man’s Nomi Ansari” for her love of color proved those name callers right. Her unpalatable love of giraffes,elephants and MC Hammer pants in garish pinks made me think of Sir Syed Uni pupils trying to dress-up like CBM ones. The gold pieces in the end with those 80s updos were epihnahy of Rekha’s “Man model banna chhati hun” from movie Khoon Bhari Maang.

Shamaeel Ansari’s name here would shock quite many but it didn’t just do it for me, it was just a cacophony of brick red hued prints and even more prints of all kinds from tiles, to central asian carpets to Mughal era  architecture replete with loads of embroidery that didn’t sit well with over all look. Offcourse her construction was amazing but with Luciano Pavarotti‘s deafening Nessun Dorma playing in the background, it was hard to concentrate on the visual discordance she brought forth. It was driving a new car in Saddar at 5:30 pm on  weekday. Also I would have gladly watered the guldans she had used for last two collections, but this basket-y spheres as hair pieces stuck out as gimmicky.

YBQ collection’s Hitchcockian introductory video should have served as a warning. The parade of red  sufi ascetic costumes that ensued afterwards was more like a homeless person’s belongings. There were ugly trinkets, small flags on walking sticks, leather belts, water flasks, bags and even chained censers spewing smoke. There were little to show for clothes in YBQs collection just stagecraft. Its 2015 and we still haven’t moved on from presenting costumes of mystics and ascetics in a cliché.

Zara Shahjahan ‘s bohochic collection was like suitcase full of gifts that your fat phupo brings when returning from europe, it had all sorts of things  for all sorts of people, hand embroidery, printed dresses, accessories to match the jora, mirror worked pieces, jackets and that too mixed with prints indiscriminately. Its like the fat pupho brought gifts but gave each a gift that wasn’t destined for it. The black mirror worked gypsy long skirt, the jackets were all beautiful but why make a plate of mix chaat out of it?

So yea its not spicy as you guys must have been expecting but it always doesn’t need to be as I am no National Foods masala mix. I purposefully skipped a few because I didn’t deem good enough or bad enough.  Also, there was recently a post on website HIP in Pakistan titled ‘In defense of FPW’s bizzare wacky and ugly‘ in which the writer argued that we should not put these people down as it would stifle creativity,but what about bad aesthetics? There is now a very fine line between Delhi and Dubai.

A lot of people ask me what qualifications do I have to write this blog the way I do. well as for myself I have never positioned myself as an expert on anything, I am just an enthusiast who is very vocal about how he feels, and it amazes me how people pay heed to what I have to say here especially when I don’t take myself that seriously. So, I would love to know what YOU guys think about the above designers and their collections.

p.s. if any of the designers reviewed here don’t like what I have written/don’t agree/ no longer want their collection reviewed here. They can message me at http://www.facebook.com/aamiriat

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22 responses to “Misses at Telenor FPW SS 2015

  1. completely agree about sonia batla, i thought it looked unfinished and bit sloppy, but maybe that was the point — iman ahmeds deconstruction frm last year was a much better collection with same aesthetic. zara shahjahan is always the same for me – zero spark, very little originality, and very derivative/repetitive. Disagree with you about Shamaeel and Rizwanullah but I understand ur reasoning behind it. DP hasn’t been anything close to good since his frida collection – comes off as cheap imitations of shehla chatoor.

    Great post!!

    • Well Well Well. Look who is back! 😛
      lol

      Thank your for taking time out to read it. I immensely appreciate your comment.
      It is good to know that someone thinks along same lines as me, there are times when I think I am demented.

    • Hahah.
      Thank you for your kind view of me. I don’t know about justice or this profession much as I am neither paid for this nor do I have the vocational training required 😛

  2. It is good to know that there still are few bloggers who have keen eye for fashion, like u, rather than being all praise. Our problem is that our designers THINK too much to do fashion… n in the end copy a piece here n there, its not that difficult just to let the orignality flow without eyeing the bucks each attire gonna make.

  3. I do question that sometimes why did he not like it…it is a usual aamir piece.. lol… but hey its a free world… what works for one doesn’t work for others but having said that universal aesthetics need to be in place even to make that call *shudders at some designers* (you know aamir who they are :P)

  4. “Sana Safinaz ruled the borrowed jora game”
    “people were flown in and they sat, took selfies and did the whole shebang.”
    “Rizwanullah’s white bedsheets returned for Fifth Avenue Swarovski collection'”

    Wow!
    Ive always admired your honesty and this post has made me an even bigger fan 😀
    I think I need to scroll down and read ALL the pieces you have written.

  5. Great review, as usual. I am an aspiring designer and I always read your blog because it helps me with editing my designs. I feel like your opinions on most of the collections are very close to my own and you always make valid points in your reviews. However, this time round I’m a bit confused reading your review on Amna aqeel and would love for you to leave a reply to elaborate further. I get what you’re saying about the horrible fabric choice and bad fits but what do you mean by when you say “filigree vines and swirls in golden silver” and “matching matching glittering contemporary bridal nightmare”. What did you not like about the embroidery?? The pattern, or the placement, or the fact it wasn’t intricate or innovative?? Or the colour golden silver? Or do you think the use of embroidery isn’t needed for fashion week? Also what do you mean by matchy matchy glittering?? Do you feel like the separates shouldn’t have been the same colour?? Would love to hear more about it if you have the time, always taking notes from here:) thanks!

    • With “filigree vines and swirls in golden silver” I was trying to describe the patterns that she made in gold and silver

      and about “matching matching glittering contemporary bridal nightmare”. If you have been following various fashion shows you would know that designers often try to make contemporary western silhouettes from jamawars and all with traditional embroideries. I feel its a mockery and it doesn’t look good.

      What did you not like about the embroidery?I didn’t like the placement and broken down patchwork that she did with

      Or do you think the use of embroidery isn’t needed for fashion week? It is a designer’s prerogative. I loved the embroidery fahad hussayn did

      Also what do you mean by matchy matchy glittering?? Her use of the same sorbet hued fabric for both pants and tops made it look bad to me. I would have prefered some differet texture perhaps or level of complexity in layering it or manipulating the textile itself.

      Do you feel like the separates shouldn’t have been the same colour?? Yes if of the same color probably it shouldnt have been all plain.

      I appreciate that i am of help to you.

      Hope my answers clarified.
      Thank you for reading and commenting here 🙂

  6. Oh Aamir.I’ve always said that you have a keen eye for fashion and your aesthetics are finer than many desi experts. By now you should’ve been made editor of a Fashion mag at least.

    I love your use of unique phrases and cute adjectives. Hope the fashion world has the heart to take this criticism in a positive way.

  7. Fashion is a cruel and rude industry. It doesn’t take criticism openly in the name of varied aesthetics and creative freedom. But keep doing what youre best at aamir.
    You’re a fashionista with a keen eye for finesse and details. I admire your courage as well as agree to your cutely coined phrases like fat phuppoo and all. BTW I want to reblog this post but it seems EDITED NOW.
    YOU KNOW WHAT I MEAN. DO TELL ME WHY.

    • Thank you Hina, yes it had to be edited as people don’t want to be featured in bad stuff, they only want praises.

      I hope you understand. Very grateful that you read it. 🙂

  8. Your blogs keep getting better and better. Im so surprised why haven’t I read them before. I kept giggling on some one-liners you added during the article and my co workers think i’ve gone nuts. But so worth it!! Haha

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