“Laore Laore Ae” holds true for a lot of things and it certainly did for PFDC SunSilk Fashion Week as well. Thanks to the generous folks at SunSilk-Unilever and their PR agency Golin Harris I was flown in for this 4 day soirée of Fashion. It is inevitable to not compare KHI and LHR, I often caught myself saying things like“ Yahan yeh aise hota hai?! Karachi to men bilkul bhi aisa nahi hota”. The venue EXPO centre is certainly better than ours. Since it was 4 days long, you will have to bear with this post like big fat Punjabi wedding.
Here in no particular order are my favorites from #PSFW15:
Arsalan Iqbal’s Devolution Chic might have been his best work so far, with intricate quilting details on white pieces, funky colored prints and a dash of mediocre womenswear I felt he certainly does better in LHR than KHI. My favorites were the blazer on Athar Amin and the gladiator buckled boots on Salman Ali. Most probably one of the best collections at PSFW15, the brand has surely come a long way. I will save to buy one of these pieces.
HSY ‘s Ink didn’t stain.Featuring mostly pants and kimono jackets in Ink blue and yellow, the collection was heavy with east Asian influences. HSY does seem to have evolved from his bronze gold bridal signature. My favorite was the dramatic white organza coat on Cybil, I also responded favorably to the elongated shirts on men with ties tucked in, I wouldn’t mind wearing a plain version of this look. But those prints in those colors were a bit OTT to be RTW menswear.I wouldn’t put it here but then others were downright ghastly.
Chinyere’s collection may have been presented in the high street prêt but it was all out bridal for me. It had beautiful contemporary silhouettes replete with ornate Mughal latticework, and various motifs from Indo-Islamic architecture. The peplum top with embroidered black pants, and the skirt with triangular ceiling pattern were my favorites. Menswear was nothing to write home about, their jodhpurs reminded me of breeches of some medieval themed theater show.
Muse was understatedly luxe with their tea length roomy skirts, the signature metallic belts, lucid embellishments and tasteful bursts of fuchsia. Panels of see-through organza panels layered over skirts and pants were quite forward-looking. But having said that I do feel that they needed to expand the narrative a bit more by e.g. exploring layering and use of feathers (like those green one on the hem) because we had seen the other things.
Who new Generation out of all could do it. It was wearable without being prissy. The use of leopard and butterfly patterns coupled with modern re-interpretation of mukesh embroidery was rather stimulating. From sweatshirt-like tunics to floor skimming long skirts the collection offered an intelligent mix of safe and striking. I am glad they didn’t go down the desi floral road. I wish they start doing shirts or Kurtas for men.
I remember reviewing Zonia Anwar’s collection some time back where she presented jewel toned draped pieces and I thought she would continue building on that but her latest Zambezi collection at PSFW15 took a more made good use of African prints and tribal motifs on shifts, and cropped jackets. Good to see a graduate transition from a dramatic collection that showed her skills to one that people could wear straight off the runway.
Fahad Hussayn’S Democrats built on his signature prints but had few surprises of metallic accents, and belts with 3D wings to add interest. I wish he had saved the final dress and the other heavily worked piece for another bridal collection and kept this one breezy and simple. My favorite from this was the piece on by Noorey Bhatt and the printed one on Sadaf Kanwal.
Republic enjoyed a proverbial casual Friday with ‘Que Sera Sera’, the new relaxed outlook with pants cropped at the ankle, shorter sleeves, digital prints reminiscent of Givenchy, use of suede and summery plaid patterns was clearly a nod to prevalent international menswear trends. I greatly appreciated the lighter color palette. But it would only make sense if these are actually accessible to people via stores, otherwise you can easily get similar pieces in BKK or knockoffs from Aliexpress.
The fact that Sania Maskatiya has relentlessly shown one good collection after another and managed to get it in stores in time is mind boggling. The Paristan collection at PSFW15 employed draped jewel toned organza and prints that looked like children’s fairytale books. It was a gleeful departure from brand’s geometric prints and riskless silhouettes. Loved the ensembles on Noorey Bhatti and Amna Baber.
Sana Safinaz brightly hued print-on-print pieces were evocative of DVF’s, but the pieces were more glamorous evening wear than flirty day dresses. There were monotone floral print that have become the brand’s signature. My favorite was the yellow paint strokes black jacket that looked a lot like Dries Van Noten’s Fall 2014 menswear pieces. The dramatic Mehreen Syed gown wasn’t really needed in my opinion.
Bank Alfalah’s Rising Talent showcase has re-instilled a new hope in me and for a change clothes were made of fabrics not plastics and pleather
Asrar Yaqub’s embellishment technique on modern silhouettes and clean construction showed his love for the heritage presented with a modern outlook. I love how he paired printed pants with neutral pieces on top.
On the contrary Hisham Malik clothes evoked a sense of sweet romanticism with immaculate use of drapery using fabrics of varying weights. I really liked his color palette for spring, and his embellishment technique that looked like coral from far. He could be a great eveningwear designer.
Then there was Najia Qazi’s collection with the eccentricity of a Norwegian designer and the calmness that is synonymous with local designers like Sonya Batla. It was great to see how the disproportionate elements in her pieces didn’t complexify them.
I really liked Nida Waqar’s half grey blazer on Rabia Butt, followed by the draped top in burnt orange. Even though her pieces showed range the narrative fell a bit disparate.
All is well that ends well but then there were those who didn’t make the cut. As they say there was a never a good war or bad peace. The misses post will soon follow. I had decided not to write a ruthless misses one, but then I never set out and plan anything. Bad thing is I couldn’t even pick top 5 so I had to resort to generic categories of Hits and Misses, there was a lot of banality and unoriginality, where is the avant garde?
Photos Courtesy: Movieshoovy Different Thinking