I had initially thought not to go down this route but giving my take over private messages is just too tiresome so here it goes. I was fortunate enough to experience PLBW2015 up-close and personal this time thanks to a lot of people i deem to uninteresting to name here. With L’Oreal Paris as the main sponsor and Nabila doing the hair and makeup, the line-up of Day 2 was the best somehow.
Regardless here are my picks for the good and bearable at PLBW 2015
Sania Maskatiya’s ‘Afsaneh’ struck the right chord with wearable separates accented with tasteful amount of zardozi, beading and thread embroidery. Restrained use of midnight blue, magenta pink and currant red as accents on the main palette of champagne gold made for a rather decorous collection. It’s hard to incorporate velvet and yet they maintained this lightness of being. They did all that and presented options how can we not appreciate the different silhouettes offered.
Elan’s ‘Jasmine Court‘ is probably as luxe as PLBW gets, with plush velvets, multiple layers replete with tones of opulent beading and threadwork. Wardrobe fit for desi Antoinette no less. My favourite look was the one on model Anam Malik. But Elan’s greatest feat was the introduction of Elan menswear, which was rather a chaste interpretation of luxury: simple,well-fitted sherwanis in pastel hues accessorised with medallions on the chest and strings of gems across the neck.
Fahad Hussayn’s ‘Matam‘ was an ode to mourning and architectural details from Chiniot featuring designer’s signature desert stone gold/ bronze palette with pops of oxblood red and emerald green. I liked how the garara on Areeba was kept simple letting the beautiful fabric shine in its gilded glory. Yes It might not have been as dramatic as his previous presentations but then even Lady Gaga has sobered up.The menswear remained practicalat times with tonal embroideries, accessorised with shawls and waistcoats. If i had money I’ll buy Fahad’s pieces. But only if I could mourn over that fact.
Nickie Nina’s ‘Neh Shikar’ commemorating wildlife in their natural habitat gratuitously earned them my attention because of their embroidery on some of the pieces. Discriminating embroidery depicting animals in bridal wear is no small feat. Their choice of doing no-brainer traditional silhouettes was rather astute. My favourites ensembles were the ones with blue and green kameezs. Other ensembles and the make-up left much to be desired.
Sana Safinaz’s ‘France Lesage’ reinvigorated my love-hate relationship with the brand. The first half starting with the look on Rabia Butt consisting of red draped top over a voluminous skirt was note worthy, then another rich ensemble with pants that made the blue lining pop was beautiful .Until the pastel pieces came on towards the end with baroque mesh patterns, use of crystals and what not that reminded one more of Faraz Manan/Elan then of Sana Safinaz, Why on earth would you take such radically different things that others are better known for?
Hamza Bokhari of Jeem showed his capsule collection named ‘Ruzzkiy Kukly’ featuring intelligently styled pieces. I liked the purple draped dress, the cut out jacket on Cybil and lastly the long slit organza dress on Areeba. I like the fact the new designers are moving away from traditional floral paisley motifs and incorporating things such Russian Matryoshka dolls as Hamza did here. And the bag was gorgeous he should do more of these accessories.
Mahgul’s ‘Wild Rose’ is another reason I remain optimistic about fashion in Pakistan. Her fine arts background is reflective in her impeccable attention to detail, and the color palette which is always more demure than flashy. I loved the flared jacket paired with slim pants both teeming with 3d embellishments. Having said that I feel they could have exercised restraint, there were pieces that were overdesigned like the dupata attached at the armholes on Sabeeka might as well have been a simple dopata just tastefully draped, the workmanship on it would have raised it regardless.Too many interesting elements on one piece kill the over all look for me.
Republic ‘s ‘Rosa‘ surely validated Omar Farooq as one of the best menswear designer collection at PLBW2015. From his masterfully draped shawls to the range of options he presented it was tastefully festive yet dapper. Womenswear on the other hand was redolent of Elan from yesteryears at its best. As a brand starting a new one should take risks, differentiate and do things they will be known for in the long run.
I have had people inbox me that I favour certain designers or that I am biased/ downright ridiculous. So, I wish to make it clear that yes, I do seem to favour certain people/aesthetic because there is little one can do in matters of taste. Some people like Biryani others prefer Pulao. One wouldn’t and shouldn’t force the other to like what s/he likes. I do not wish to ride on the high horse citing influence and credibility etc. It’s just that I like somethings and I keep liking other things that fit into that mould. I do blog posts such as these because I like writing them and because some people ask me for my take, although there are times I seriously wish people start giving me some ‘ulterior motive’ that haters often accuse me of having.