The latest leg of Fashion Pakistan Week Spring Summer 2016 took place in Karachi , where over three days models were supposed to parade down the runway showcasing the clothes for current season. Hair and Makeup was by Nabila and her team. Frieha Altaf did the show’s choreography and Tehmina Khaled’s Take-II for PR. I tried delaying the write-ups for this since I particularly found the collections very insipid But #aamiriat is apparently popular for making people laugh. Which would be great if I was trying to be funny. It is comforting to know my job as aamiriat is secure. No one else wants it. All around me were people who just take photos from phone and write catchy lines on instagram.
Wardha Saleem’s A/W2016 Resort / Luxury Pret collection made in beautiful desolate grey palette with bursts of pink and green colors.The use of Mughal floral motifs depicting rich architectural heritage of Indian subcontinent was commendable. Accessorized with meticulously hand painted images of birds on handbags and headphones added the oomph. My favorite was quilting and laser cut details. Understanding she showed same pieces in London Fashion Week earlier,at FPW everyone was showing for summer 2016 I wonder how is it appropriate here with long boots, quilting, layering and fabrics that looked rather thick.
JafferJees celebrated its heritage of over 130 years bringing back its most popular vintage bags defining trends through history from luggage to evening backs and suitcases that meant business. Clothes accompanying the bags aided the narrative so you could easily distinguish a duffel bag from a motorcycle one. The show was conceptualized, presented and styled by the brother sister duo Wardha Saleem & Nubain Ali. Kudos to them!
Sonya Batla’s capsule collection titled’Identity‘ was made in collaboration with students of University of Karachi Textile Design Department students. The pieces were akin to a dream in the middle of loadshedding stricken summer siesta. Beautifully finished, intricate details with drum load of drama, the Iris Van Herpen intricacies seemed misplaced between banalities of Bollywood commercialism of other collections. It was a great on its own, but probably not the presentation or the clothes for FPW.
Kayseria’s tasteful and unassuming easternwear was inspired by the royal courts of Delhi . Unlike conventional bridals Kayseria’s pieces featured exquisite ‘Marori’ work on pastel shades of silk bases. The silhouettes remained traditional yet had the contemporary quality of being light and non-fussy. Hoping that it becomes off the rack solution to every girl’s dressing-up dilemmas. It surely gets my vote. The design credentials are there, they have the retail in place now they just need PR to make it enviable.
Gulabo with its ‘I am Karachi‘ featured street-chic prints of nuts,bolts and wrenches cut into most modern forms of low-waisted jumpsuits, crop tops, drop crotch bottoms & pants. The menswear capsule with urban drapes in black were so good that it merited its own full collection presentation. My favorites were the printed jumpsuits with the most finest Peshawari khheri I have ever come across. Quirky jewelry made of nuts and bolts by Aarij Hashimi was another favorite of mine.
FnkAsia showed promise, be it subdued colors of dark blue and prints, or the ethnic crafty jewelry. I took a liking to the pleated blue top and the exaggerated kurta silhouette short dress.Even with its previous collections which I highly disapproved of I personally think FnkAsia could be just a great ethnic jewelry/accessories brand with a story. Just Sayin!
Nausehmian commenced ‘Carpe Diem‘ with a dramatic fashion film followed by sherwanis and suits in hues of brick red and a hill-sandy brown. It is established that Nauman Arfeen can cut a mean shalwar but there were plenty of wearable pieces made of linens, cottons and raw silk. For instance if I my pocket allowed I would love to wear the brick red kurta sherwani with wings embroidered on the back that Model Ahsan Khan wore. It is appreciable how a menswear designer was clever enough to include gimmickry of having celebs parade down the runway for the clothes were rather prosaic on their own.
Ayesha Farooq Hashwani‘s ‘Oriental Blossom‘ was probably the sole collection which didn’t get lost in translation and did what she does best: Glamorous red carpet worthy floor sweeping dresses.Replete with heavy Sino-Japanese design elements, there were elements of her flowy-drapy esthetic. Although some could see a very classic Cavalli-esque design from the collections 2005-06. It was sexy, it was glamorous it was Ayesha Farooq Hashwani.
Generations‘ ‘a dot for a walk’ was a winner through and through. One could imagine a confident self-possessed woman wearing these clothes with multitudes of details, be it the relaxed silhouettes to the exceptionally lyrical draping in an unostentatious color palate of cloudy greys, blues and sunset pinks. So here is a design house which is big on retail yet manages to reinvent itself beautifully. Whats your excuse?
Zaheer Abbas’s ode to the basic shirt proved you can use just one fabric and manipulate in tens of ways by dissecting and reinterpreting it. Devoid of embellishment or any fancy technique the collection showed plain white cotton shirts in not so humble ways, I liked the inverted button placket short dress and the details of wooden jewelry paired with clogs. Humaima Malik was good but I felt Rabya Chaudry with a rooster may have been rather excessive.
Shamaeel Ansari‘ ‘s collection titled ‘Yugure‘( a Japanese word meaning “twilight.”) continued on with her tapestry paisley signature but atleast she did fashion proud. There was the quintessential layering, embellishments with an impact but subdued in color palette in the sea of sameness you can see spot Shamaeel like a lighthouse in a sea storm.
So this is what I liked relative to whatever was presented over three days. As per the convention there will be a misses posts for which you might have to come back.