QMobile HumShowcase took place at a time where all of media and bloggers were neck deep in workloads and frankly done with fashion. With a stellar lineup promising to focus on real fashion with no celebrity showstoppers or it-girls to lineup a certain designer’s collection, it made up for the all shortcomings at council-held fashion shows. So much so I wonder why can’t the Hum Bridal Couture showcase have such no fuss, high on fashion presentations.
Jazib Qamar’s Bizzare might be a bit much for some, but with his use of zippers, rivets and bolts on coated denim pushed the envelope above and beyond the typical suit/sherwani dichotomy of designer menswear. Extremely outlandish statement pieces that only daring men like Lenny Kravitz can choose to get.
Deception by Deepak n Fahad was inspired by geometrical patterns, with plenty of monochrome pieces. I saw great way to incorporate them into my wardrobe as separates. Their journey from their first collection at FPW many a moons ago to this is commendable. Probably the only thing they need to work on is to style their collections more eclectically.
Munib Nawaz’s Phantom encouraged men to embrace individuality, with unabashed use of camouflage pattern and plenty of tailoring options. However it was the textured brick red suit, and the army green number on model Rohail that caught my fancy. You need to be confident to pull off a Munib Nawaz ensemble, a nobody cant for these are for the edgy and the restless.
Faraz Manan ‘s Mirage was as unreal as its name suggests, the awe-inspiring ensembles made of shimmering lame and the luxurious silks are for a very niche discerning couture clientele not for commoners like myself. Amidst all the glitz it was the Henley shirt over exuberantly shiny pants on Hasnain that I could dream myself wearing. (Are you out of your mind I can’t afford any of it)
Inaaya’s tabeer was like a dream come true as in my FPW review I wrote she need some drama and boy did Naushaba Brohi take it up a notch. The use of color in pieces not only made it look edgy but also youthful.
The storied house of Bunto Kazmi proved why after all these years and after this mushroom growth of bridal designers, she still has her hands full. It was a validation for doubters and naysayers that old ways can still innovate and reinvent for the modern times, be it an all covered up garara or a sensually shimmering saari.
Rizwan Beyg’s return to runway with Lace Couture was tribute to original couturiers Chanel, Dior and Valentino but the truly exemplary feat was how original his own aesthetic is even when he is referencing Dior’s new look. The absence of color made sure you appreciate the craft and technique even more with each russling movement of a skirt.
Faiza Samee’s runway was more of a travel expedition across central Asian to Eurasian peninsula. She draws upon multiple ethnic prints, complimentary artisanal patterns and embroideries in richly colored plush fabrics; all showing her dedication towards painstaking indigenous crafts as opposed to digital copypaste obsession of today’s designers.
HSY’s Love Letters with embroidered writings on sheer fabric was probably the better collection from his last showcase at PSFW17. Although many quarters talked about uncanny similarity to Prabal Gurung’s Spring 2017 shows, I beg to differ and I feel its a great departure for designer to evolve for contemporary times.
To call Zaheer Abbas’s Cosmology simple, would be to discount all the minuscule details that were put in; from the collection progressing like the moon phases, the expertly done vertical ruffles, the clouded print on silk or the referencing of medieval astronomical drawings subtly done with gold. It was what he does best.
Sania Maskatiya with their luxury prêt in shades of champagne gold were faultless; with the right amount of glamorous silhouettes and practical pieces to pair with from pantsuits, to kaftans they are wearable sans ostentatiousness. Must say they do menswear better than most menswear designers, they fit snugly to the body without coming off as effete.
Chapter 2 by Khaadi brought back the much loved handwoven and handcrafted textile in the most heart warming colors, showcasing minimalist approach to appreciate the craftsmanship of the fabric itself. The shapes were contemporary and you saw rigid graphical lines that denote a kind of power and control for the woman of today.
Ahmed Bhaam didn’t disappoint either with his powersuits in summer appropriate immaculate tailoring, there is nothing boyish about his suits, the generous lapels, the confidently padded shoulders accessorized with singular bow tie or at times a scarf. These are the suits for the life you want, not the tired old life you have.
Umar Sayeed‘s Ode to Zainab Market used the gold embellished denim, designer’s signature intricate florals, spunky bohemian accessories, it was Umar Sayeed at his most unexpectable ways as he dabbled into offhand R&B style seemingly casual pieces with bedazzled jackets, and spunky pants fit for a party no less.
As you bear to read all through this long write-up I must mention, i picked these since they were memorable and I felt are memmorable hence the long writeup. My top 5 collections were Rizwan Beyg, Faraz Manan, Zaheer Abbas, HSY and Sania Maskatiya. With Gulahmed being the singular collection that pleasantly surprised me the most, and finally Nabila‘s team for doing the best job out of all fashion weeks this year. Hope this Showcase becomes a bi annual calendar event reminding people what fashion truly is.