Fashion Pakistan Week hits close to home as it was my first show to attend as a “blogger” so to say and Frieha Altaf facilitated it, and almost 3 years down the road a lot of things have changed, Now Latitude CRS is doing the PR and HSY ,the Pitbull(the latino rapper) of Pakistani fashion can be seen choreographing and dancing at the end of runway. After many a flips, it’s now Telenor FPW So #TFPW15 I wonder where did the strategic alliance aspect go? Another strategic alliance that seems to have fostered is with Nabila as her NPRO and N-Gents served as official hair and makeup partner yet again.
Here are what I thought the hits of Telenor FPW SS 2015, you may disagree but heck its not democracy its aamiriat:
Iman Body Focus Museum’s Sartorial Philology and New Nomads titled collection silenced all the critics who kept doubting her LSA deserving credentials. Starting with asymmetric pieces in white accessorized beautifully with exotic tribal-eque jewelry the collection moved to fur accents, leather fringe and then more decadent yet complex interpretations of eastern embroideries. I wish the bridals in Pakistan move toward this direction! It was a pilgrimage for a novice fashion enthusiast in me.
Wardha Saleem’s Lotus Song sang in sublime tones of pastel colors, starting with a piece on Amna Ilyas that reminded me of Manish Arora then moving to more safer options like a saari, pants and jackets. The silk prints in baby blues and light pink at times washed out the whole look but the embroidery on some of the pieces show her lucrative high-street potential.
Inaaya’s ‘Resilience’ hits close to home with her cause of sustainable fashion that employs women handcrafting these beautiful tukka (appliqué technique) and threadwork on her clothes. This time there was more color, I liked how the hems and necklines were finished, the embroidered belt on the skirt, the draw string detail on one of the short black dresses. The best part is women can wear each of these pieces! Its how Sindh really is, not the cliche hobo version YBQ was trying to sell us.
Zaheer Abbas’s Primavera inspired by Sandro Boticelli’s painting of same name started with gracefully flowing drapes as floor length skirts, voluminous coats then moving to shorter youthful silhouettes. His shinning movement was not only elegant drapes but the intricate embroideries of flora and fauna and the small bags he showed with a few outfits. I personally wished there were more these accessories and printed pieces so he could sell these.
Fahad Hussayn did what he does best with his Dominionatrix titled collection, there were a lot of hybrid silhouettes making use of his mastery in draping coupled with exquisite embellishments and embroidery. Pop of green and hints of pink in florals could have been explored a bit more. I loved the hybrid gown-jumpsuit with one leg made of lace. I hope he explores more vibrant colors next time(blush pastels being non-colors for most people).
Nida Azwer ‘French Terrilis’ borrowed heavily from the Roccoco art movement with it’s love for rocaille shell-like curves, leafy vines and mantels in grey mauve color palette. I loved the ball gown with white cut out flowers stitched all over. Her fusion silhouettes have great potential for retail. I just wish they do something more dramatic.
Sadaf Malattere’s 1920s flapper-dress silhouettes with flatter busts and dropped waist were re interpreted this time in Mountbatten pink, accents of brown and tastefully embellished with sprinkle of stones. But haven’t we seen it been before in black, white, chartreuse and what not. There were times that bow ties, sheer fabric and flowing ruffles made it look like Antoinettan lingerie especially that one piece on sana sarfaraz. How many more of these will we see?
Sania Maskatiya presented a tribute to the craft of tailoring titled ‘Khayat’ with prints featuring elements such threads spools, scissors and measuring tapes. The luxury prêt collection had the je ne se quois, the practical separates but the most exciting piece worn by Areeba Habib was namazi girl in the front and a party girl at the back i.e. it looked like a full-length tunic from front and when the model turned it turned out to be cropped top. My favorites paint splatter pants on Rachel.
Sanam Chaudhri’s collection named Zingara(gypsies) was more of a contemporary woman than what the term implied. It started with pieces in taupe, mauve and spruce blue with ample floral cutwork and lace technique. I liked how she tied bandanas across the neck and used gold rope tassels to tie in some waists. But as it progressed to orange, grapefruit and gold collection the clothes became a bit too bridal-ly. About time FPW starts a full-fledged bridal segment?
Jafferjees’s by Nubain and Wardha started with badly lipsynched video followed by models wearing 60s inspired geometric prints in cantaloupe orange, grapefruit pink, sandstone, pale lemon and green. Boxy shapes of most bags left them motherly and undesirable, the use of fringe on some was quite on trend. The sandstone colored bag with metallic emblem and colorful fringe was the only noteworthy bag. I wonder why doesn’t Wardha do such simple things for her brand. And I am including it here just because of clothes not the bags.
My overall favourites over the four days were Iman Ahmed and Zaheer Abbas. Stay tuned for the misses post, sound off on whether you agreed with what I thought and if you didn’t.